Tuesday, 21 May 2013

_project #bespoke #cape #part5

This has been in my mind for about three years and we're close to finishing the project. I would have been nowhere without Marion, our head cutter at NEW TAILOR. Last weekend, we finished the pattern. As you can see in Sunday's post we are still in doubt whether to opt for a 'normal' collar (high rise) or a hood (Oliver Queen style). 

Top picture show neckline and shoulder construction pattern. As you can see, the shoulde will have several 'parts', allowing a better balance in the cape all together. 



Cutting the pattern. The tape shows that for this size a cloak, the pattern paper is slightly too small, so we needed to glue it together. 


Scissors and an antique iron device we have currently employed as a paper weight. 


High end action on the shoulder cuttin'. 

Marion and the first half of the cape!

More soon... 


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Tuesday, 7 May 2013

_media #newtailor #textilia

Me and my colleague Marcel were recently interviewed for Dutch fashion retail magazine Textilia. Thanks for the exposure!


If you want me to send you the full article, just send me an email at menco@lacouleurblanche.nl


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Friday, 12 April 2013

_new #norfolk #jacket #newtailor


Part of my job at NEW TAILOR is to create and inspire. The Norfolk Jacket for SS2013 in a bright blue cotton has so far been a great success!

_jacket: new tailor 16. 100% blue cotton from the dormeiul jacketings bunch . mtm
_shirt: emanuel berg for new tailor . 100% white oxford cotton . mtm



Inside lining in bright blue cupro. Pay attention to the 'hare pocket'. We are all just hunters. 


Squared bellow pockets and rounded flaps. 


Belts, braces, pleats and cottons. NEW TAILOR Spring and Summer 2013. 

Pictures by Sjoerd Spendel

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Friday, 5 April 2013

_worn #04.04.2013 #bespoke #suit #dormeuil


There are days that you order a an extra pair of pants for your suit afterwards - in my case because of the wish for a relatively high waistband and fishtail back - and then a picture shows that fabrics of the earlier made jacket and new trousers don't match. This is that day.

Funny enough I am not able to see any difference when I look at it with the naked eye so no probs at all! One of the best suits there is, anyway!

_suit: new tailor 16. basket weave from the dormeuil amadeus 365 bunch . mtm
_shirt: emanuel berg for new tailor . 100% white oxfiord cotton . mtm
_tie: battistoni . 100% silk dolphin print . rtw
_pocket square: fiorio milano . 100 % cashmere . rtw
_bracelets: viola milano and trashness . different materials . rtw
_socks: pantherella . dark grey wool and lycra . rtw
_ shoes: crockett and jones . dark brown monkton on 348 last . rtw



Looking for inspiration in the (infamous) Glennhunt fabric bunch. Love that green and red windowpane - reminds me of the Hackett check. 


All that sprezza in the tie. What a moment. 


Fishtail!!!


Polish your shoes!

Pictures by Sjoerd Spendel

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Friday, 29 March 2013

_worn #25.03.2013 #vest #bowtie


Vintage vests... Had this one made years ago together with a jacket in the same fabric. I remember it had something to do with Japanese fabrics as we used to combine it with ties and pocket squares made out of Kimono silk. Back in the days.

_vest: mn vintage . s120 tanned houndstooth . mtm
_trousers: new tailor . dormeuil amadeus . mtm 
_shirt: emanuel berg for new tailor . 100% white twill cotton . mtm
_bowtie: cravatte pelliano . 100% silk brown knitted . rtw


Knitted has been there for a while. I'm still not sure about the ties, but I love these rough looking silks for bow ties. Have a look at the pleated armhole of the NEW TAILOR by Emanuel Berg shirts. 




Pictures by Sjoerd Spendel

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Monday, 25 March 2013

_illustrating #menswear #window


Creative surroundings make being creative so much easier. Last week, in the NEW TAILOR Amsterdam store, I was busy making a shop window planning for the upcoming Spring and Summer season. 


When I am not using my Bamboo drawing tablet connected to the computer, I tend to build up my drawings in three different stages. First I'll make a sketch using my (new) black Koh-I-Noor Hardtmuth Versatil 5201; I then collor with just a small set of colloring pencils made out of old Japanese newspapers and do the finishing touch using the Faber-Castell Finepen 1511 Document, the best thing in the world to buy for 1 euro. There's a nice feature of Faber Castell in this month's Monocle Magazine by the way!


Showing in the pictures is a sketch for the main shop window at NEW TAILOR Utrecht. Happy to have worn that vest for the first time within years :) Outfit will be featured in Friday's post!

Pictures by Sjoerd Spendel

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Friday, 22 March 2013

_worn #21.03.2013 #monaco #blue #newtailor


First of all, big up for Sjoerd Spendel who will be the 'la couleur blanche outfit post photographer' for the upcoming months. Being a young creative (and for instance part of 365 dagen), Sjoerd and I make an excellent style match!

_suit: oger dfs . s130 ariston plain royal blue . mtm
_shirt: emanuel berg for new tailor . 100% white twill cotton . mtm
_tie: fiorio milano . 100% silk grey glencheck . rtw
_pocket square: fiorio milano . 100 % cashmere in baby blue houndstooth . rtw
_bracelets: viola milano and trashness . different materials . rtw
_book: het blauwe boekje . written by roel . rtw